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Mendocino Scenic Drive

Exploring the Mendocino Coast

On this scenic drive, you’ll head up the most popular part of the Mendocino coast. You’ll learn all the “must sees” that might otherwise be missed.

(If you haven’t followed the trip so far, please see Part 1: Redwood and Mendocino scenic drive introduction and then Part 2.)

• If you drove up toward Mendocino from San Francisco on Highway 1 all the way or via a combo of 101, 128 and 1, you'll approach Van Damme State Park and the town of Mendocino from the south on Highway 1.

• If you came in on Orr Springs Road described in Part 2, you’ll begin at the corner of Comptche-Ukiah Road and Highway 1, just south of the town of Mendocino.
  
  You’ve just seen the beautiful Mendocino coastline for the first time on this drive.
  
  When you reach Highway 1, carefully turn left.
  
  Drive south on Highway 1 along the coast.
  
  Van Damme State Park comes up within 3 or so minutes.

Van Damme State Park

Van Damme State Park gives access to a pleasant beach in a sheltered cove. The water’s cold, but the beach provides a nice venue for enjoying the Mendocino coastline.

Across the highway, Van Damme features a fascinating “pygmy forest” of miniature conifers (cypress and pine trees) complete with miniature cones. You'll almost be surprised to see no leprechauns peering out from behind these trees.

There's also a fern covered ravine accessed by a nature trail. Ferns thrive in this damp and cool climate.

When visiting California state parks, remember to save your parking pass. On the same day, your pass will be valid at other state parks that do not charge higher fees.

From Van Damme, head north on Highway 1 along the shore.

Big River Estuary

Just after passing Comptche-Ukiah Road, you'll reach the bridge over the mouth of Big River into the Pacific.

This is the Big River Estuary, the longest in Northern California. Depending on the season, you can canoe or kayak up the Big River some 8 miles.

This beautiful place welcomes you to the town of Mendocino. Note the nice beach on the northwestern side of the bridge.

In late 2002, the California Department of Parks and recreation acquired 7,334 acres along the Big River, including what you see here, for development into a state park. Good on them.

Historic town of Mendocino

Just over the bridge, you’ll enter the town of Mendocino.

Take the first left turn.

This leads you onto Main Street.

The entire town of Mendocino has been designated as a National Historic Preservation District. Every building in the village west of Highway 1 has landmark status.

As with so many towns in this area, a strong New England influence prevails.

Settlers once found it considerably easier to reach this part of California by ship from New England than, for example, from the Midwest. Americans settled this coast before any railroad reached California

With the Big River “bringing in the goods” from redwood forests beyond the coast, now charming Mendocino was once an important lumber transport center, where timber was transfered from the river to ships.

The Kelley House Museum, at 45007 Albion Street, provides a great venue to explore local history. Weddings are held in its pretty garden.

Don't rush your visit

The best way to enjoy picturesque and historic Mendocino is to walk and drive down its various side streets. Don’t rush your time here.

Behind the striking (see link) Mendocino Presbyterian Church at 44831 Main Street (on your left as you enter town), a very scenic path leads you along the rugged shore. You may even see whales.

Mendocino Headlands State Park

When finished in town, drive west on Little Lake Street, which is 3 blocks north of Main Street using Lansing Street or others.

Little Lake becomes Heeser Drive, which takes you to the western water's edge facing the open Pacific.

This rugged shoreline is protected in Mendocino Headlands State Park.

Be careful when walking along the rugged bluffs above the sea.

Follow Heeser Drive as it turns north and then east along the headlands

Then turn left onto Lansing Street, in order to return to Highway 1.

Carefully turn left onto Highway 1.

Drive north on Highway 1.

Russian Gulch State Park

Next comes Russian Gulch State Park. (In these state park links, be sure to access the brochure section when listed on the left.)

This little treasure offers a coastline as beautiful or more beautiful than any along the Mendocino coast. The the arch of the Highway 1 bridge within the park is one of the most famous Mendocino scenes.

Two popular walks go to a “blow hole” along the shore, best at high tide, and to a fern-covered area on the other side of Highway 1.

Continue north on Highway 1.

Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens

Seven miles north, you'll reach Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens. This is on your left, just south of Fort Bragg, at 18220 North Highway 1.

The gardens are a highly recommended stop, which are lovely all year.

There’s a rather nominal admission fee. Although privately developed, the garden is now owned by the Mendocino Coast Recreation and Parks District and run by a public trust.

The exceptionally mild climate along this coast rivals that of southwestern England. Both face heavy winter rains, but also enjoy average temperatures that do not vary much between summer and winter, when compared to most places away from the equator.

For example, the average high temperature in January is 57F at Fort Bragg—not unpleasant at all—but the average high in August is just 67F. That’s a remarkably consistent climate. The average lows, 41F and 50F, also range close.

That’s exactly the climate that nurtures varied and extraordinarily lovely gardens.

Easy to visit

In contrast to many gardens, the nearly 50 acre Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens is relatively easy to visit. The layout is not confusing.

Generally, keep to the left as you enter, and continue keeping toward the left until you reach where the gardens front the sea.

On your return to the entrance, generally keep to the right, but also go down some of the side paths.

You may plan your visit using a map on the website, which also as an extensive photo section.

Unusual location

Understandingly, visitors love a garden that fronts the beautiful Mendocino coastline. However, that location creates problems because most plants don’t like salty air.

The garden resolves this dilemma by using salt-resistant coastal prairie grasses adjacent to the shore and by backing that with hardy pines and cypresses that screen the bulk of the garden.

Continue north on Highway 1.

Fort Bragg

Sadly, you’re in for a few miles of less scenic driving.

With all its new construction, supermarkets, strip malls, and the like, Fort Bragg shows off its popularity as a baby boomer retirement center. With low clouds or fog throughout much of the summer and heavy rainfall during the winter, this is no Sun City, however.

Fort Bragg, named after a U.S. Army captain who later became a Confederate general, does have an historic section that gives a flavor of frontier days.

This lies on both sides of Highway 1, near the Skunk Train railway depot.

The Skunk Train operates along an old logging railroad. To reach the depot, turn left off of Highway 1 at Laurel and go one block. There’s usually some interesting rail equipment (link opens with sound) parked there.

The Skunk Train makes a good excursion if you will not continue up to the main redwood area on this scenic drive. It's also excellent for for rail fans like us and younger children. The railway also offers a variety of theme trips, which we have not taken. This is one of the most well-known and popular tourist railroads in the U.S.

You may enjoy the whale watching and fishing expeditions available from Fort Bragg’s waterfront. Hopefully by the end of 2008, a fine new indoor aquatic center will open. These are rare in the less populated areas of northwestern California.

Fort Bragg has the least expensive motels in the area, although the term budget doesn’t come to mind!

Continue north on Highway 1.

MacKerricher State Park

North of Fort Bragg, MacKerricher State Park preserves some 9 miles of Mendocino coastline. It’s a real gem.

Although the southern portion has the picturesque coves and rocky headlands typical of Mendocino coastline, MacKerricher State Park is best known for its long sandy beach and miles of sand dunes in the northern portion.

This park is a real gem.

Because Highway 1 bypasses the park’s beautiful shoreline, turn left at the sign to visit an especially nice section of the park. If you reach Ward Avenue along Highway 1, you’ve gone too far.

On the way in, you’ll pass a pretty fresh-water lake that has picnic tables.

From the main parking lot, walk out along the boardwalk to Laguna Point for the view.

An old road, now closed to auto traffic that also goes past the main parking lot, brings bicyclists, hikers, and joggers along the entire length of the park’s shoreline.

Westport-Union Landing State Beach

For the most part, Highway 1 continues to travel away from the coast, but then you reach Westport-Union Landing State Beach.

This gives you the chance to drive along some 3 miles of Mendocino coastline.

Although the Westport-Union Landing State Beach shore is less rugged than before, you’ll love it.

Nearly everyone pulls over to enjoy the views.

Continue north on Highway 1.

Lost Coast

Highway 1 was never completed.

The state never budgeted the needed funds to build along the exceptionally rugged coast, the Lost Coast, north of Rockport toward Eureka.

This became the only major section of the California coastline not followed by a highway, a railroad, or both.

No worries, though. In just over an hour you’ll reach the incredible Avenue of the Giants scenic drive, one of the most beautiful highways in the world. That should do, don't you think?

Leaving the coast

At Rockport, Highway 1 turns inland toward U.S. 101 and the redwood parks.

Once Highway 1 leaves the coast, you’ll drive past miles of second and third growth redwood trees. It’s a pleasant but twisting drive.

The private company that owns most of this land does not clear-cut adjacent to major highways, in order to avoid a public relations debacle. Clear cutting means taking out all the trees at once and leaving a scar on the land, which has the public image of coal strip mining or kicking small children.

When you reach U.S. highway 101, drive north toward Eureka.

Go on to Part 4: Avenue of the Giants scenic drive, and continue your redwoods and Mendocino scenic drive!

(To return directly to San Francisco, you should turn south onto 101.)

Part 1: Redwood and Mendocino scenic drive introduction,
Part 2: Directions from San Francisco to Mendocino,
Part 3: Mendocino scenic drive,
Part 4: Avenue of the Giants scenic drive,
Part 5: Avenue of the Giants scenic drive (continued),
Part 6: Scenic drive from Avenue of the Giants to Arcata,
Part 7: Arcata travel guide – what to do,
Part 8: Humboldt and Mendocino counties in depth,
Part 9: Scenic drive from Arcata to Redwood National Park,
Part 10: From Redwood National Park to San Francisco,
Part 11: Motels and hotels along your redwood scenic drive,
Part 12: Camping along your redwood scenic drive, and
Part 13: Mendocino and Redwood parks airport choices.