By Don Nadeau, on January 24, 2010, in Travel
I am so very pleased that Nick Runkle (center above) has joined BidonTravel. You will love his blog posts!
For someone 25-years old, Nick has enjoyed a remarkable variety of life experiences. Let him describe himself–
“I was born in Ottawa, Canada in 1985, grew up in Fairfield Iowa, and graduated from Colorado College in 2007 with a BA in Economics and a minor in film.
“Since high school, I have been lucky enough to spend time in many countries worldwide and have developed a great passion for travel.
“While in college, I studied abroad in India, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and Holland, and traveled through most of Western Europe, Morocco, Mexico, Canada, and the United States.
“After graduating from college in 2007, I spent six months teaching English in Argentina and Uruguay and another year traveling throughout South America.
“I think seeing the world from a variety of perspectives is important and being able to experience and learn about different cultures first hand has shaped who I am as a person. I appreciate everything the world has provided for me thus far and I look forward to giving back as much as I can while continuing my journey.”
Nick has agreed to post some of his experiences before heading to Guatemala in a few weeks with his friend Talia.
Knowing them, they’ll spend a week or so studying Spanish in Antigua—Nick stays passionate about perfecting his Spanish–and then settle in several tiny villages so utterly off the beaten path that they have no Internet access.
In case you doubt that, wait until you read his first post!
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By Don Nadeau, on January 13, 2010, in Travel
California can do better
Without question, Amtrak services in California subsidized by the state have become the best in the nation. These are used extensively where available and passengers generally like doing so. Nothing said here means to belittle that achievement.
Who would have thought that anyone or anything could get Californians out of their cars?
As an example, Amtrak California runs as many as 12 trains each way per day between Los Angeles and San Diego. It could run more if track capacity was available. Moreover, this service operates in addition to all the regional trains that serve the northern and southern portions of this route.
In the February issue of Trains Magazine, Fred Frailey, former editor of the Kiplinger publications, tells how the explosive Amtrak growth in California happened. It’s a superb read.
Nevertheless, I strongly believe that California can do much more, even with limited resources.
Routes
California oversees and subsidizes three rail routes under the banner “Amtrak California.”
- San Diego to San Luis Obispo via Los Angeles
- San Jose to Sacramento via Oakland, and
- Oakland to Bakersfield via San Joaquin Valley
Amtrak connects to San Francisco using buses across the Bay Bridge. Buses also connect to other cities not on these lines. (See pdf file for Amtrak California map, which may load slowly.)
In addition, four interstate Amtrak trains originate in California, which are not state subsidized.
Structural problem I
You may have already noticed several problems.
California hosts three major urban tourist magnets, the combined Los Angeles/Orange County metro area, San Diego, and San Francisco.
Nevertheless, Amtrak California does not connect Northern California to Southern California with trains!
True, the national Amtrak system operates a long-distance train, the Coast Starlight, from Los Angeles to Seattle via Oakland,
However, many seats between LA and the Bay Area are blocked for interstate passengers. You won’t even see this train serving coastal California in one of Amtrak’s timetables. Moreover, sleeping cars with little capacity but high fares make up a significant portion of the maximum number of cars that Amtrak will haul on this train.
Bottom line: both Amtrak and Amtrak California fall significantly short of meeting demand for seats between two of the most popular cities in America. Incredibly, this is also one of Amtrak’s most scenic routes, one featured heavily in its promotional materials.
Instead, the Amtrak reservation system usually suggests a two-hour and twenty minute bus connection from Los Angeles to San Joaquin train service at Bakersfield, a route that does not run along the scenic coast to the Bay Area.
High-speed rail
In 2008, California voters approved nearly 10 billion in bonds to connect northern and southern California with high-speed trains perhaps permitting a 2 and ½ hour trip between Los Angeles and San Francisco. Currently, the state seeks additional federal stimulus funding.
Considering the issues outstanding, such as the intense debate over its route in Los Angeles, don’t expect completion of an initial California High-speed Rail segment until at least 2020.
The proposed routes (there are four branches) seem to take in consideration population density and right-of-way costs, as well as and perhaps especially maximum political support.
In other words, a high-speed route between San Diego and Los Angeles will operate via Riverside, some 60 miles inland from Los Angeles, instead of a 120 mile direct route along the coast. (Still, even with this detour, high-speed rail may make this trip in as little as one hour and 18 minutes.) All routes bypass California’s sublime coastal scenery.
Amtrak California should not wait until high-speed rail to fill the demand for trains between LA/San Diego and San Francisco.
Structural problem II
California has grown explosively since World War II.
Predominately agricultural areas such as northern San Diego County, the Santa Clara Valley (San Jose – Silicon Valley), and the “Inland Empire” around Riverside and San Bernardino have become intensely urbanized.
Others such as the San Gabriel and especially the San Fernando valleys have become much more densely populated, due to replacement of single-family homes with apartment buildings and condos.
Yet, currently, Amtrak California operates as if the population patterns of 70 years ago still exist.
True, high-speed rail will do much to alleviate this situation, but again, why wait so long?
During the next decade, there are no plans to serve the Inland Empire at all, except for a few connecting buses to Bakersfield more than 170 miles away.
That means Amtrak California will not be serving a population of some 4 million people! That’s larger than 24 U.S. states.
Until high-speed rail, other than train service to Sacramento and a few bus services, Santa Clara County, with a population of some 1.8 million may remain not served by Amtrak California. Why not?
Somehow, it seems more important to run three trains per day to San Luis Obispo, a town of some 44,000 people (plus in fairness a state university). I am not begrudging San Luis Obispo this service—good on them for embracing it—but the priority seems strange.
Why such a lack of balance?
Because it divides its Amtrak services into three largely independently operated route systems, California does much to foster creativity and accountability.
On the other hand, these route operators overwhelmingly tend to look at their current turf instead of needs of the state as a whole. Even coordination among the three remains largely absent.
Los Angeles (San Diego) to San Francisco service
Take the matter of Los Angeles to San Francisco service. Keep in mind that you only have to add service from San Luis Obispo to San Francisco, as Amtrak California already serves the southern portion.
Amtrak California headquarters says it wants to operate that route now, but lacks the funds to buy cars for it.
Nevertheless, during the 12 months that ended 9/30/2009 per Fred Frailey, ridership on the San Diego to San Luis Obispo route fell 10.6%, most likely due to the deteriorating economy in California.
As a result, why not take some cars from other trains not operating at capacity and use them to fill the gap between San Luis Obispo and San Francisco? That would permit Amtrak’s first direct service into the city without bus transfers.
No severe operational hurdles
Often when attempting to introduce long-distance passenger service to lines already used for freight or other purposes, there are severe bottlenecks to overcome. Not in this case.
There is lack of rush hour capacity due to commuter trains between San Francisco and San Jose, but Amtrak California could easily operate on that route outside of rush hour and still travel through the best coastal scenery during daylight.
California would also need to reach agreement with Union Pacific, which owns the tracks between north of the Los Angeles area and San Jose, but happily Union Pacific operates very few freight trains on this route.
Instead of building additional passing tracks and the other infrastructure needed when there is congestion, Amtrak California could merely lease the line during the times of day its trains operate, with Union Pacific operating at other times.
Because Coast Starlight service already exists between San Luis Obispo and San Jose and commuter trains run between San Jose and San Francisco, you don’t even need new stations.
Go for it!
In conclusion
I would like to leave you thinking about fairness.
Every California taxpayer subsidizes Amtrak California services. Shouldn’t as many of them as possible benefit from these, instead of the limited groups that do now, especially if services can be added without great cost?
I do not understand how the California Department of Transportation and its Amtrak California division can justify virtually denying intrastate service to the 4 million plus people who live in Riverside and San Bernardino counties and to those who live in Santa Clara County, as well as the other heavily populated areas not served well.
Regardless of what you may think of the federal stimulus plan, the money is there. Why hasn’t Amtrak California stuck a spike in some? It seems as if nearly every other transportation agency in California has, but not Amtrak California.
(More on Amtrak California later.)
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By Don Nadeau, on January 13, 2010, in Hotel Tips, Travel
Normally, I don’t review chain places like Hampton Inns, which are standardized throughout the nation. You could blindfold someone until in the lobby, and she would have no idea of where she is.
With these, travelers find comfort in dependable quality, not in distinctive features.
However, the Courtyard by Marriott in Avondale, Arizona (actually just across the line in southwest Phoenix) stands out.
Location
This Courtyard is one of the closest hotels to University of Phoenix Stadium. A Super Bowl was played just up the road.
It lies at the intersection of the I-10 and 101 loop freeways, which makes it very convenient to get around. (As a consequence, request a front room for more quiet.)
People
What stuck me most about this place was the exceptional friendliness of its staff. Everyone was so helpful and kind.
A special shout out goes to Tanya at check in and to the wise manager who hired her and the others.
I even enjoyed joking with the breakfast chef. How he can be from Tampa and not place black beans and yellow rice on the menu is beyond me!
Negatives
The same manager who hired all those wonderful people should worry about the elevator and hallway rugs. Shockingly for a Marriott, these are skid road flophouse-like worn and filthy at best, especially in the elevators.
Otherwise, everything was usual Courtyard by Marriott quality.
Directions
As one desk clerk said, we opened 2 years ago, but a Google satellite has not yet passed overhead. This impacts even the map used on Marriott’s reservation site.
Instead, use Yahoo maps.
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By Don Nadeau, on December 31, 2009, in Travel
- Note: This post uses the word profiling in the way most Americans do–the selection of a group for special attention.
Just because you do not believe in wide-scale profiling of American Muslims does not mean you are soft on terrorism. It also does not mean that specific groups of American Muslims should never be profiled.
For instance, I believe that al-Qaeda-type terrorism makes war on nations. We should not approach it as if it was merely a crime problem. I believe that Islamic terrorists should be treated just as if they were the enemy during World War II or other American wars, in other words not in U.S. civil courts. They should be treated morally and fairly, but not in a New York City courtroom.
However, as for weapons in this war, I do not believe that a religious profiling of U.S. Muslims, which blankets a huge group of innocent people, will improve the overall safety of Americans.
More than a moral issue
In a war, a nation sacrifices certain freedoms. However, it is important that a free people preserve as many liberties as possible. Otherwise, the positive values of a country may be changed forever.
The blanket religious profiling of Muslims that many propose to control airline-targeted terrorism is simply not the right thing to do on many levels.
It is morally wrong because it would impact negatively so very many innocent people, but even more importantly in the context of war, it is tactically wrong.
If you treat innocent people as the enemy in such an all encompassing way, you can be quite sure some will cooperate with that enemy. While others may not act, they will be sympathetic. The nation may lose the overwhelming willingness of American Muslims to cooperate in identifying threats.
Identifying Muslims 101
If only we profiled Muslims, some say, we wouldn’t have to take our shoes off at TSR security points. And, “My 80-year old grandmother wouldn’t have to be searched.”
Tell me. How do you recognize a Muslim? What do they look like?
- Do Nigerians (some 50% Muslim) “look like” Muslims?
- Does/did (he may be dead) Adam Pearlman (Adam Yahiye Gadahn) from Orange County?
- Does John Walker Lindh from Marin County?
- José Padilla from Chicago and New York City?
- People from Bosnia and Herzegovina (40% Muslim) who came to the U.S. during the Bosnian war?
Well then, should we just profile those of Arab descent? After all, “they” caused 9/11.
Again, take a look at Lindh, Padilla, and Pearlman on the list above.
Say what you want about it, but al-Qaeda performs as an equal opportunity employer. Pearlman comes from a Jewish background.
Setting up a watch list
If you desire profiling, how do you create a watch list of all American Muslims and include this information in the electronic strip on passports when the U.S. Census Bureau doesn’t even ask religious affiliation?
You can’t just presume that everyone from a so-called Muslim country is a Muslim. You can’t even assume that everyone from the Middle East is Muslim.
For example, some 40% of Lebanese are Christians, including my friend Jihad, whose family has been Christian since nearly biblical times. Believe me, he would not want to end up on a Muslim watch list.
Counter-productive
With estimates ranging from some 2 to 7 million, Muslins outnumber Jews in the United States. In stark contrast to countries like France and the UK, American Muslims have achieved economic and educational equality with the general population. Probably because of this, you have not seen the bitterness that sparked major riots in France.
Overwhelmingly, U.S. Muslims have remained loyal to the United States.
Are we to reward this loyalty by making their each trip an embarrassment or worse?
Should we profile certain Muslims
I am not saying that we should not profile citizens of countries that have shown support of terrorism, who want to travel to the U.S. However, with very few exceptions, American Muslims have not shown this propensity. In fact, American Muslims have helped identify those who have.
However, there are specific groups of Muslims and others in the U.S. that probably require profiling.
The Department of Homeland Security would certainly want to look closely at Americans who travel to countries that have supported, either privately or publicly, Islamic terrorism, and those who hang out with Islamic extremists who preach hate.
I am certainly not against this type of profiling based on suspicious behavior within limited groups.
Northwest 253
Having both flown on Northwest flight 253 and visited Ground Zero earlier this year, I need no reminder of just how serious the issue of airline safety is.
However, blanket religious profiling of a humongous group that includes nearly all innocent people is not the way to achieve it.
Those 80-year old grandmothers
As for searching the 80-year old grandmother, that may be the result of inefficient security procedures. Strangely, TSA agents seem to spend more time looking for weapons than on the type of individual profiling for suspicious behavior that I have observed at airport security points in other countries.
Passing through TSA security the day after the bomb failed to explode on Northwest flight 253, I don’t remember one TSR agent looking directly at my eyes, while talking to me, which supposedly can often tell a trained security person your state of mind. No one questioned me. Hardly a word was spoken.
In fairness, the first agent could tell from my passport 1) that I had not visited any problematic countries, and 2) that I travel frequently without blowing up anything. In fairness too, no one has done lethal harm to a flight after passing through U.S. airport security since TSA has been on its watch.
Nevertheless, I wish TSA would somehow cut down on the number of 80-year old grandmothers being searched by refining its techniques. This might dampen the call for a massive profiling of innocent people.
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By Don Nadeau, on December 9, 2009, in Travel
Rosarito Beach, Fox Studios Baja (Baja Studios), Tijuana
What’s it like traveling to Mexico’s border areas these days?
Winner Twitter #MexMonday best blog post
Super curious to experience how Mexico, a country I love, has been doing since my last visit in early 2008, I decided to visit the sole resort towns in the much maligned border zone, Ensenada, a popular cruise ship stop, and Rosarito Beach, a spring break destination, as well as the border town of Tijuana.
This is not a decision made lightly, with 843 people murdered in Tijuana alone last year. Without official approval, even U.S. Marines are banned from visiting Tijuana. As USA Today said, “Baghdad si, Tijuana no.”
In fairness though, the U.S. has its own crime problems. For instance, New Orleans had 179 murders in 2008, with just some 20 percent of Tijuana’s population. Although it’s been hard to estimate NOLA’s reduced population since Katrina, that’s a higher per capita rate than Tijuana.
Choosing how to go
Obtaining Mexican insurance and driving across in your own vehicle presents no problems, but I didn’t have mine on this trip. And, as you can imagine, although it can be done, renting a car to take across the border can present problems.
As one alternative, I could have taken the San Diego trolley to the border and used frequent bus services like Mexicoach to access downtown Tijuana and beyond, but decided on an escorted bus tour instead.
That decision turned into one of the most interesting and fun travel days I have ever experienced.
Gray Line San Diego
Gray Line San Diego offers three tours to Mexico:
- Tijuana only,
- Tijuana plus Rosarito Beach, or (my choice) these plus
- Ensenada, which takes some 12 to 13 and one-half hours depending on your pick up point.
Most travelers opt to tour Tijuana only, a shame.
With a pick up point in La Jolla farthest from the downtown San Diego waterfront tour office, the bus came for me at 7:00 a.m., with drop off at 8:30 p.m.
Mexico immersion
With this tour, Mexico began not at the border but when Abel Rojas, the incredibly friendly and good-humored shuttle driver, pulled up in La Jolla, and didn’t end until I was dropped off that evening.
Abel actually lives in Tijuana for the affordability of family homes compared to the horrific prices in San Diego. That means leaving home at around 4:00 a.m. to beat the border crossing crowds and not getting back until very late evening.
Early rising did not impact Abel’s enthusiasm and desire to make the ride as comfortable and interesting as possible, including an offer to grab a coffee along the way, when he found that I had not had breakfast.
Until other people joined us, we enjoyed an in-depth conversation about Mexico vis-à-vis the U.S. I was very disappointed to find that Abel was merely the shuttle driver for this trip, and was assigned to another tour later that morning.
Brandy Blackburn
No offense to Abel Rojas, who was awesome, but disappointment ended quickly when Brandy Blackburn bounded onto our bus at the last shuttle stop, in order to steer Ensenada and Rosarito passengers onto her bus.
Born in Colorado, but now living in Tijuana with her family, Brandy is quite remarkable. She is simply the best guide I have ever experienced.
“I don’t do Gray Line’s tour to Ensenada; I do mine,” she warned.
Believe me, you’ll love it.
The border
Brandy prepared us well for the seriousness of the crossing into Mexico at Tijuana. Heavily armed Mexican troops greet you at the border. Not a fun bunch.
While U.S. concerns about the Mexican border are well known, Mexico has its own, for example, how easily weapons can be obtained in the U.S. in order to try and smuggle these into Mexico for the drug cartels. Mexico also battles to stop illegally gained wealth from the U.S. from passing into Mexico to fuel even more criminal activity.
The border situation has deteriorated since the increase in crystal meth manufacturing in places like Tijuana and since the diversion of crack and cocaine traveling to the U.S. from Columbia by small boats and planes to land routes via Mexico. When mixed with the huge volume of legitimate goods that cross the border each day, traffickers face less risk.
This is a very complicated subject. The United States demands that Mexico stop drug traffic, while Mexico asks the U.S. to do far more to control consumption.
Yet, actions can have unintended consequences. When various American states cracked down on the sale of crystal meth ingredients, manufacturing moved in mass to Mexico, which has been able to produce a purer and more addictive product in higher volume to import into the U.S.
Crank up the machismo
Interestingly, Mexican officials and solders are simply not used to women bus drivers such as Brandy. In fact, some have never seen one.
This is not a country like India, Pakistan, or the UK that has had a female head of government. Of course, neither has the U.S., in spite of the steps America has taken toward equality.
From experience, Bandy has adopted a very macho and businesslike stance when dealing with the guards. She would not allow herself to be placed in an inferior position.
Perhaps not surprisingly this smoothed our way through each armed checkpoint, this border one plus six more combo toll booths/checkpoints by the time we made it back to the border. At one stop, perhaps sensing trouble, Brandy spoke only in her unaccented American English, instead of the seemingly perfect Mexican Spanish she used elsewhere.
At this first crossing, with no checks of passengers or of the cargo hold, we were waved through within several minutes, as we were at every stop within Mexico.
Nevertheless, I found the experience of crossing the border at Tijuana a far cry from when I last crossed by strolling across a stress free bridge over the Rio Grande to dine in Piedras Negras a few years ago.
Border fence
Within a few minutes, we were driving on a divided express highway along the actual border on the Mexican side. This was quite fascinating.
You have the true border with the remains of earlier boundary markers, an arid vacant space on the U.S. side that I dubbed “no person land,” and then that humongous new wall that seems impossible to cross.
Nevertheless, there were small groups of men sitting in the American “no person zone” and on the hillsides to the south starring at that fence.
Coastal highway
The same limited access divided highway travels along the coast from the outskirts of Tijuana to Ensenada. This offers fine views of the coast.
Because this is a toll road, a lot of traffic stays on parallel two-lane roads that are free. This helps smooth the trip.
Although beaches in Mexico are public and the government has set aside a few coastal parks, overdevelopment mars much of this shoreline, with seemingly endless fine homes and condos adjoining the ocean.
Happily, the coastal highway sits above much of the construction, which preserves many of the views.
Rosarito Beach Hotel
We reached the Rosarito Beach Hotel on the main street of Rosarito, a popular spring break destination, for our first sightseeing stop. This hotel, one of the nicest in town, fronts a rather nice long beach.
As with Southern California beaches, the water remains quite cool all year, and you really need the warmth of a hot day to enjoy swimming, which we did not have in mid November.
Those of us going to Ensenada had 90 minutes either to hang at the hotel and enjoy the beach and hotel pool or to explore the town.
Rosarito
If you take the tour only as far as Rosarito, not recommended in my opinion unless you can enjoy the beach on a warm day, you will have six hours in Rosarito.
That Rosarito is laid back (at least outside of spring break) is an understatement, but there are quite a few shops and restaurants near the Rosarito Beach Hotel to liven things up a bit, as well as Mexican branches of Wal-Mart, Home Depot, Applebee’s, and the like further up the main street, in case you are already homesick.
Based on my informal survey of sidewalk demographics, this has become quite a retirement area for Americans.
Speaking of Rosarito sidewalks, a number of intersections are meticulously engineered for wheelchair ease, but some sections between intersections maintained by merchants are incredibly rough, with changes in elevation that approach six inches. Watch your step when walking in this town!
Baja Studios – Fox Studios Baja
Just south of Rosarito, we stopped overlooking extensive Baja Studios, the former Fox Studios Baja.
Baja Studios was closed to tours, but from our viewpoint above it, we could clearly see the studio layout, including the infamous tank used for filming the drowning scenes in Titanic.
James Cameron, Titanic’s director, certainly did not have to overexert himself coaching his actors to look miserable in that water. You really feel the cold after a short time.
Other films shot here include Pearl Harbor, Deep Blue Sea, Master & Commander: The Far Side of the World, Ghost of the Abyss (again with James Cameron), In Dreams, and Weight of the Water, as well as the Tremors television show and various others.
Ready for filming, a tall ship used in Masters & Commander sits docked near the Titanic tank.
Just south of Baja Studios, Brandy showed us the exclusive condos and homes that house movie production staffs and actors, including the one in whose penthouse Leonardo DiCaprio stayed. He enjoyed a pleasant view.
Lobster Town Puerto Nuevo
My mouth watered as Brandy drove past—drove past!–the village of Puerto Nuevo, with seemingly every building devoted to a lobster restaurant. Lobster boats dock nearby.
A lobster dinner by the sea with a drink adds up to around $15.
Brandy, #fail. (Just kidding. I realize that it was a bit early for lunch, especially per Mexican custom, and that the cuisine in these restaurants might not have been appropriate for some tour members.)
Ensenada
Curiously, Ensenada fronts a harbor, not a grand beach or a grand beach with a small harbor, unlike other oceanfront resorts in Mexico.
If it had a rail connection, Ensenada would be one of the great ports on the Pacific coast. Nevertheless, it’s a busy port, and an extremely progressive and attractive city that is fun to visit.
Ensenada shines
In contrast to the slightly (or more) gone to seed appearance of so many American and Mexican cities, Ensenada shines.
Sidewalks in good repair sparkle, you do not notice trash, and the most modern plaza I have ever seen directly adjoins the downtown, with free wireless reception.
Overlooking all this flies the most humongous Mexican flag imaginable. They ought to haul that thing over for World Cup 2010.
In spite of its clean and orderly nature, Ensenada does not seem dull in any way. I really enjoyed it.
Viagra capital of the world
Overwhelmingly, this must be the Viagra capital of the world.
Pharmacies—and, you’ve never seen so many pharmacies in such a small area—blanket the downtown. Invariably, these display large signs advertising Viagra or Super Viagra, as well as often ones promoting “best prices here” for other sexual enhancement drugs, along with price lists for regular prescription medicines.
This is obviously where many Americans head to save on pharmaceutical costs.
Lunch in Ensenada
Included in the tour cost comes a complete lunch at a rather good Mexican restaurant with excellent service.
Along with salad and dessert and, if you wish, a margarita, choices include Mexican-style chicken, cubed steak, and two fish dishes plus a vegetarian meal by request. (Mexicans do not eat snack or home-style foods like tacos and burritos when they go out to “better” restaurants. Best not to ask for these in a formal place with “class.”)
I liked that tour members could dine at a restaurant “approved” by Gray Line that gives comfort to those worried about dining in Mexico, but did not like that the food was significantly less spiced than normal even for this type of Mexican cooking. Apparently, no one wants to disturb Americans who are perceived as wanting blander food.
After our meal, we were free to wander around on our own. Most shopped; I explored.
Because Gray Line deliberately parks at the tallest building in town, you’ll find it easy to make your way back after exploring on your own.
Ensenada waterfront
From the plaza, just up the street from the restaurant, I walked across to an adjacent park that overlooks the waterfront. This is a pleasant place to people watch and to enjoy the view. There’s also a very clean public washroom that you can use during your explorations.
From the waterfront park a boardwalk takes you along the harbor.
I continued north along the harbor beyond the boardwalk to the commercial section, with an eye on another tall ship in the distance. Its shipyard was securely fenced off from the public, but I could get an excellent view from across the street.
This shipyard seemingly had every conceivable small ship (usually very old) that could be used for film production. For some reason, I had my eye on a large old tugboat to start my collection.
Gray whales
Sadly, my tour departed too early in November to see the many gray whales that teem along this coast in winter (peaking in February). Nor did we have time to venture out of Ensenada to nearby attractions, such as to “La Bufadora,” a blowhole that spouts seawater 70 feet into the air.
In my opinion, winter and especially early spring would be excellent times to visit this area for the whales and for the green countryside that comes with winter rains.
Tijuana
Except for the periodic checkpoints (in this direction they were apparently looking more for drugs than guns–these were more serious in nature, with armed troops at one lining both sides of the roadway), the drive back up was quite relaxing, with the views of the ocean even better as dusk approached.
After a short tour of Tijuana, we parked on Avenida Revolucion, the main drag.
Again, nearly everyone shopped as I walked around. Leather and silver items plus discounted alcohol were most popular with our group.
Although infamous for the raunchiness of some of its entertainment venues, the mood on Avenida Revolucion was upbeat, with people of all ages enjoying a warm and pleasant evening. The street did not have the seediness that ones expects from its reputation. As in Ensenada and Rosarito, the streets and sidewalks in this area were very clean, with no homelessness or panhandlers visible.
However, far more so than in Ensenada, lounge and shop barkers approach you and try to entice you in. However, smile, quickly look away, and continue walking without pausing. It helps immensely not to walk too close to doorways.
Brandy’s family
Returning to the bus, I found Brandy enjoying a visit with part of her family, including her mother, a daughter, and several grandchildren. They spend time with her at this stop.
Knowing the long hours that she’s away from home, this was heart-warming to see.
Returning to the border
Also at this stop, on hopped a singer with a guitar that soon had the group—tired as we were—enthusiastically and loudly (and rather professionally, I might add) singing cliché but fun Mexican standards, and we weren’t even drunk. Seriously.
Until our mariachi, as we called him, left us at the border, this was a joyous way to end our time in Mexico, and I thank Brandy for this. Both Abel and Brandy imparted the spirit of Mexico just as if we were honored guests in the country.
Just prior to crossing, Brandy let a Mexican pastry vendor she knew sell to us and that helped alleviate the rather long time we waited for clearance to go into the U.S. customs and immigration office.
Regarding the pastries, I should mention that Brandy did not spend the day steering us into various shops for commissions, a habit of some guides that has so irritated me at times in the past.
Crossing into the U.S.
Crossing back into the United States by coach was considerably more complicated than entering Mexico.
Even the buses lined up differently. With so many, there had to be a space left between some, so that the U.S. guards could tell that no one was sneaking past on foot.
Brandy clearly spelled out what we needed to know in order to have a smooth process, as she could not to accompany us into the immigration office and then to a new location of our bus that we hadn’t seen. In this situation, we watched out for each other, making sure everyone cleared customs before leaving the office and finding the bus.
In spite of the crowds, the customs and immigration officers remained pleasant and professional.
Gray Line’s business decline
Since the “troubles” started–the H1N1 flu outbreak in Mexico, the ongoing drug war publicity, and the U.S. economic downturn–Gray Line has lost half of its customers to Mexico. Our tour had 18. Some days none show up.
Gray Line operates a tour with as little as one reservation, not wanting to cancel on anyone, but because of the licensing arrangements, it has to use big buses into Mexico, not an economical situation.
This decline in passengers impacts not only Gray Line but also the people in Mexico who depend on tourism, such as the restaurant we visited, and even the incomes of tour guides from tips.
Who travels on this tour?
Nearly our entire group consisted of very up-for-it Australians, Canadians, New Zealanders, as well as several other internationals, including a very fun honeymoon couple from Cornwall with whom I enjoyed lunch.
I am proud of the several older American couples that joined this tour. They had fun!
In general Americans tend to be very risk-adverse when it comes to travel.
I am not advocating that anyone take crazy chances, but too many forget the dangers of merely staying home in a country with one of the world’s highest crime rates. As mentioned above, Tijuana in the heart of the drug war zone has a lower murder rate than the popular tourist city of New Orleans.
And, after all, you can be a target if you become drunk in any country, a physiological state all too frequently found in Americans who travel to Mexico.
Some also tend to forget that much of the fresh food Americans enjoy, such as salad greens, comes from Mexico. In Mexico, as in other countries, it’s not so much what you eat as where you eat that determines your well being.
Comfort level
I found the comfort level on this tour very high. That means people were happy and relaxed throughout. Except for several joking remarks about the length of time it took to re-enter the States, I never heard a complaint.
Five concerns you may have
You must have a valid passport or approved alternative document to take this trip. If appropriate for your nationality, you must have a visa valid for reentry into the United States.
Baja is very used to tourists and nearly everyone speaks some English, often excellent English.
Public washrooms have attendants and all that I used were quite clean. Gray Line buses used in Mexico also have facilities.
There is no need to exchange money. Dollars are accepted everywhere. You’ll need some small change for washroom attendants. Fifty cents seems customary. If you give a dollar bill, you may get pesos back, which you can use at your next stop.
Except for those optional sidewalks in Rosarito, walking is easy throughout the tour. You are remarkably free to determine how much walking you want to do. Just one vista point (not at Baja Studios) has many steps, which you do not have to climb.
Go for it
Will I recommend this tour and this part of Mexico to others? Absolutely.
Brandy was awesome but so were all six people I talked with at Gray Line San Diego, a company that has much to teach about travel industry hiring and tour operation and planning.
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By Don Nadeau, on November 28, 2009, in Travel
In the rugged horse country of central San Diego County, where apple orchards thrive in a true four-season climate not found along the coast, you’ll find apple pie shops.
One, the Julian Pie Company, some say, bakes the best commercial pies in America. I certainly found its pies to be quite remarkable and well-worth the drive from San Diego.
Not just apple
Famed for its apple pies, of course, including a popular version with no added sugar, Julian makes a pie for nearly everyone. (See the list below.)
These are sold by the whole pie or by the slice, which you can enjoy inside or at tables outside in season. Many customers opt for both, a slice to eat in the bakery and whole pies—sometimes tall stacks of whole ones–to take away. In addition, most pies are sold online.
At the store, you’ll also find a few other baked items.
With your pie, have Julian’s delicious apple cider. In addition, you can order a large helping of vanilla or a tasty cinnamon ice cream with your pie for just $1.50.
Credit cards are accepted.
Natural ingredients
Julian prepares its pies by hand from fresh fruit. No canned pie fillings or other shortcuts tamper with their delicious flavor.
These pies are a world away from the usual frozen ones found at your supermarket and in many restaurants.
The pecan pie
Good apple pies are relatively easy to make if you use good ingredients and a good recipe. Therefore, I wanted to test this bakery’s mettle, how far it would go to make a great pie.
In my experience, chefs, especially those not from the South, most frequently lose their way when making pecan pies.
So, how did Julian do?
Outstandingly! Julian’s pecan pie is so rich, without being wickedly oversweet, and so very delicious. Again, a world away from most pies found in restaurants and supermarkets.
Out-of-the-way?
You’ll find directions to Julian via Ramona below.
The Julian Pie Company makes a great stop on the way from San Diego to Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, which along with Death Valley and Joshua Tree national parks and the Mojave National Reserve is one of California’s great desert parks. This route takes you the scenic way to Palm Desert and Palm Springs via the Salton Sea.
From Palm Desert, Google Maps leads you through Joshua Tree National Park and the Mojave National Reserve to Las Vegas, a scenic route that actually takes less time than using the Interstates (not counting photo stops and hikes).
Therefore, if you’re traveling to Anza-Borrego, Palm Desert, or Las Vegas from San Diego, you’ll certainly want to route yourself via Julian Pie Company.
Directions from San Diego
Julian Pie Company uses an address in San Ysabel that does not work with Google Maps. Instead, follow these directions:
From San Diego, take the I-8 freeway east to State Highway 67 in El Cajon.
Then go north on Highway 67 into some rugged hill country.
When highway 67 ends at the State Highway 78 intersection in Ramona, continue straight (east) on 78. Do not turn left.
When you reach the small village of Santa Ysabel, Julian Pie does not show up well at the intersection of Highway 79.
Therefore at this intersection, turn left (north) onto 79.
Then turn left immediately into Julian Pie’s parking lot.
This drive is so worth it. You will love Julian pies!
Julian also has a branch in the quaint town of Julian, CA (naturally), east of Santa Ysabel along Highway 79, which I have not tried.
Pies usually available
Expect the following pies to be available in store plus others that come and go:
Regular apple made with Granny Smith apples
Apple with sweet Dutch crumb topping
Natural apple with no added sugar
Natural raspberry apple
Natural blueberry apple
Natural strawberry apple
Cherry
Blackberry
Blueberry
Boysenberry apple
Strawberry rhubarb
Pecan
Pumpkin
Blueberry apple crumb
Links:
Food Network video
Roadfood.com review
Yelp user reviews
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By Don Nadeau, on November 28, 2009, in Uncategorized
All comments are reviewed before they show up in the blog.
Dissenting opinions are very welcome, but please don’t waste your time or mine submitting spam comments unrelated to the topic. These are deleted and in some cases reported.
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This post gives the pros and cons of Allegiant Airlines to help you decide whether or not to use it. You will also find helpful tips for traveling on Allegiant Air.
Allegiant’s robust finances
At least in the short term, one thing you probably do not have to worry about is Allegiant going out of business before your trip.
Allegiant Airlines, actually Allegiant Travel Company, attracts considerable attention by making big bucks in this down economy, while providing low fares on nonstop routes nearly never served by other airlines.
Allegiant profits in spite of its rock bottom fares (as low as $9 each way LAX to Monterey last summer) by aggressively pushing hotel and car rental packages on its website and by charging fees above its fares that must make other airlines salivate.
How Allegiant operates
Allegiant considers itself a package vacation company, not an airline in the way we usually think of them.
This is a company that thinks deeply about what it does. From selecting viable routes and airports ignored by other airlines to flying only on days of high customer demand, Allegiant maximizes its revenue. In fact, the airline virtually shuts down on Tuesdays, as it sees so little demand for flights that day.
Frankly, Allegiant serves communities that should have been served by Southwest Airlines long ago, but Southwest stubbornly sticks to a rigid formula of adding only new airports that have potential for flights all day, all week long.
On the other hand, Allegiant seems perfectly willing to hire part-time people, in order to serve an airport for as little as once a day several times a week. Based on the money it makes, this has proven to be viable business model.
LAX service
Allegiant looks for opportunities, even when they don’t fit its usual operating patterns.
When told that a lot of its customers in Las Vegas were racking up rental car mileages way beyond normal, Allegiant found that many of these people were using its cheap airfares to Vegas to access Southern California. Research showed what airports these people were coming from and what airport in California would best serve them.
Not known for flying into incredibly busy airports like LAX, Allegiant does now!
The pros – reasons to use Allegiant
The fares!
Remarkably low priced tickets come especially easily if you are flexible about dates and can avoid the high fees for checking bags ($35 each if pay at the airport) and for advance seat selection and priority boarding.
However, even with its fees, Allegiant’s total cost can be a remarkable value.
Allegiant’s policy says fill every plane. To do this, it lowers fares as necessary to often astonishing levels knowing it will make money via its aggressive fees and car rental and hotel sales. Besides, after a certain point, Allegiant has already broken even on a trip and these additional sales are nearly pure profit.
One-way tickets. Like JetBlue and Southwest, you are not penalized for buying one-way tickets on Allegiant. This gives the added flexibility that many people wish.
The service. In my experience so far, Allegiant employees have been unfailingly excellent, cheerful, and professional. I’ve flown with Allegiant into and out of six airports with no problems.
I’ve also talked with many Allegiant Air customers, who’ve reported no unusual concerns other than the online booking fee described below.
The comfortable leather seats. These do not recline, which gives extra legroom and makes using a laptop easier. Because Allegiant offers no “redeye” flights, lack of recline should present no problem.
Nonstop flights. You don’t connect through “hubs” on Allegiant Air. See its route map. Allegiant serves cities that haven’t seen nonstop service to Arizona, California, and Florida for years, if ever, and customers love this.
Note: If you book a connection, you’re on your own. You must reserve and pay for each sector separately. Allegiant will not be responsible if you miss your connection. It’s best to overnight in Las Vegas or another connecting city if you want to connect.
Cons – things you should know
Think of Allegiant as a charter airline. Its flights are scheduled, but it acts as a charter.
That means, for example, that you have to allow extra check in time if you have not printed a boarding pass online or have bags to check. Check in takes time, as Allegiant seems to allot fewer counter agents than some other airlines and fewer passengers show up with boarding passes already printed elsewhere.
Flight delays
As with most charter flights and airlines like Southwest, if there is a mechanical problem, you will NOT be put on another airline. You will wait for the problem to be fixed or for Allegiant to send another plane—even if you are in Grand Rapids and that plane is in Las Vegas.
As a result, Allegiant may not be the airline to take when you have tightly scheduled vital business meetings or a cruise ship to catch.
The fees.
These are really in your face. Allegiant builds its profitability on high fees.
Free water? Ha! Free coffee? You must be joking. Instead, you’ll be offered bottled water for $2.00 or a coffee-like drink for around $4.00 (I believe).
On some flights, Allegiant even has a fun fee that passengers enjoy. You can pay an optional $5 (or more) fee to enter a raffle.
The winner gets half the proceeds ($135 on my last flight), a few runners up receive prizes like beach towels and bags, and—guess whom?—Allegiant gets the rest. As those bags don’t come from Gucci, that residual money adds up.
Checked bag fee
Checked bags set you back $35 each (less if purchased online).
Advanced seat selection fee
Choosing a specific seat usually costs $11.00 to 14.00.
Note: Only passengers who have paid the pre-selected seat fee may use online check-in and print a boarding pass before arriving at the airport.
Already having a boarding pass cuts the check-in time needed, if you have no luggage to check, as you can go directly to security and the gate. (You’ll need to ask someone what gate, though, before proceeding through security.)
Because Allegiant seats are configured two by three, with no more than a one in five chance that you’ll get a middle seat, you may wish to take your chances by not paying for advance seat selection.
Priority boarding fee
Although you can pay the optional priority-boarding fee only if you’ve paid for seat selection, priority boarding may be well worth it.
Priority boarding gives you first crack at the overhead bins.
This cuts the chance that there’ll be no room for a somewhat larger than normal carry on, resulting in a $35 checked bag fee.
Online booking fee
Paying extra to reserve online is Allegiant’s most controversial fee. After all, you are paying to use a procedure that saves the airline money!
Frankly, I believe that the online booking fee is an ill-advised policy—in contrast to so much at Allegiant that is so well thought out. Why have something that attracts so much negative attention and so many unfavorable customer comments?
How many customers will Allegiant lose if it nixes the fee and adds $7.00 to 10.00 to its usually already low fares?
At a conference, I listened to Ponder Harrison, Allegiant’s good-humored Managing Director – Sales and Marketing at the time, defending the fee by saying that you can always make your reservations at an airport to avoid it, but that dog doesn’t hunt.
Allegiant car rentals
Note that several of Allegiant’s busiest airports like Mesa Gateway near Phoenix lack the car rental competition you’ll find at the main airports used by other airlines in these cities. That can make prices higher. Also, the hours some companies are open may be limited.
If you book through Allegiant, normally cancellable car rental reservations become non refundable.
Allegiant hotels
Again, hotels booked through Allegiant become nonrefundable. Make sure the savings are worth it when compared to Hotels.com and to other sites that usually have more liberal cancellation policies.
Customer service
Allegiant does not provide a toll-free number for either reservations or customer service. You can call 1-702-505-8888.
Or, you can present customer service issues to Allegiant’s Twitter account at @allegiantair. Recently, an answer came within moments.
@allegiantair is a good place to keep up-to-date on new routes and specials. Loyal customers are always suggesting new routes.
In conclusion
Overall, passengers love Allegiant Air. Other than its online booking fee, I certainly like this airline. Of course, I don’t travel with several checked bags that can add up to as much as $140.00 extra in fees each trip.
Just be aware that you are not dealing with a traditional airline and keep in mind the cautions and tips above.
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By Don Nadeau, on November 2, 2009, in Hotwire, Travel
As you probably know, for hotel room only reservations, Hotwire like Priceline’s “Name your own price” option does not reveal the name of the hotel where you’ll stay until you pay. You will know its neighborhood, star quality rating, and price, but not its name before you book.
However, you can easily find out typical hotels Hotwire uses in each star quality.
- If you’re traveling to a city where Hotwire offers packages (hotel + airfare and/or car), Hotwire names hotels and resorts. See:
Hotwire.com
Choose one of the “build a package” options, such “Hotel+car.”
There’s no guarantee that you receive one of these hotels or resorts if you book a room only, but you’ll know typical hotels for each neighborhood and star quality that Hotwire is using for your dates of travel.
- I also list many hotels that Hotwire uses and explain exactly what Hotwire’s star quality ratings mean in
“Hotwire Hotel Names and Ratings”
Check these out.
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By Don Nadeau, on October 31, 2009, in Travel
Lately, the subsidies Amtrak receives for long-distance trains have entered the national conversation again. Outrageous, some say.
However, when thinking of rail transportation in the U.S., it is important to remember that more people use New York Penn Station each day than all the airports serving New York City combined. This doesn’t include commuter trains serving Grand Central Station.
Also, somehow the thinking is that all passengers get on at the first station of a long-distance train and get off at the last—”Who’d want to take a train all the way from Chicago to Los Angeles?”—but most passengers travel just portions of these lines.
Favoritism
In spite of being significantly more environmentally friendly, Amtrak must compete with transportation modes that are far more heavily subsidized than it is.
For example, Amtrak must battle airlines whose fees and taxes passengers pay do not begin to cover the costs of airport infrastructure, air traffic control, and security. It must compete unequally with a mode that contributes far more per passenger to energy trade deficits perhaps to the detriment of national security.
Thinking beyond Amtrak
Now, I’m not married to Amtrak. Far from it.
Perhaps those who have operated under a basic survival mentality for years do not possess the creativity and initiative to lead us into a new age of transportation.
It is certainly true that some of the most successful Amtrak operations have been initiated by states, e.g., in California, Illinois, North Carolina, Oregon, and Washington. And, I have experienced excellent service with independent operators like Sir Richard’s Virgin Trains in the UK.
This is not to say that we should necessarily give up control totally to the states or to independent private operators. For example, some states such as Maine, Massachusetts, and New Hampshire have proven unable to coordinate fairly cross border services among themselves. And, the days that private rail companies can easily lay tracks across vast sections of the U.S. are long gone. Some sort of national coordination of services seems necessary, as was done in the UK with private companies.
Leveling the playing field
Passenger rail, even in its existing form, would be more economically viable if the subsidies provided to different modes were made more equal or eliminated altogether. I wonder how many people would fly between Washington and New York, instead of taking the train, if flights were not so heavily subsidized?
From the beginning, Amtrak has been sorely undercapitalized and at the mercy of the railroads it operates on for on-time performance, etc., a situation that severely impacts its public image.
Lack of funding creating inefficiences
With just equipment for one trip or less per day on most Amtrak long-distance routes, people at most stations along these routes cannot make day return trips. In other words, someone in Pasco cannot go to Spokane and come back the same day. This considerably limits the potential of most long-distance rail routes in the U.S.
And, although it tries to serve as many patrons as possible at convenient times, Amtrak does not have the funds for the necessary equipment to make this universally possible.
For example, the sole eastbound trains from these cities leave at
Cleveland 1:54 a.m., 5:20 a.m.
Houston 5:10 a.m.
Little Rock 11:39 p.m. (better than 3:10 a.m. westbound)
Salt Lake City 4:10 a.m.
Spokane 1:15 a.m.
Tucson 1:55 a.m.
These times cannot be helping the financials of trains on these routes.
Moreover, Amtrak not only faces the cost of providing and staffing stations to serve trains at such inconvenient times, it faces the cost of providing and staffing stations on long-distance routes that usually serve just one train each way per day. That is not efficient.
The Sunset Limited
Critics never fail to point out to the most egregious example of Amtrak “waste,” the Sunset Limited from New Orleans to Los Angeles.
Its loss per passenger is truly horrific, but not in this extreme form typical of Amtrak and not immune to improvement. In fact, as nearly unbelievable operational problems on Union Pacific, whose tracks Amtrak uses for this train, improve (and these are improving), we should see the financial performance of the Sunset Limited improve.
Thinking about the future
In closing, I would like to ask that you think about a world with $400 oil. In case that happens, do we really want to reduce our transportation options in the U.S. by shutting down long-distance rail service?
And, although the U.S. Constitution does not call for airline or rail passenger service—of course, none existed at the time–I would ask you to reflect on what the framers of the Constitution were thinking when they felt it important for the Federal government facilitate communication in this country by creating national roads (Article I, Section 8). Did they merely want to move mail about or did they believe it important for Americans to interact and experience each other?
Do we want a country where it is no longer readily possible for anyone besides the most well-to-do to move about?
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