By Don Nadeau, on July 29, 2010, in Travel
Looking at these photos, you may think that I am in Vermont, but I am not.
Moreover, you may not believe that the first major battle in a war that grabbed the attention of the major powers of the time—what turned out to be its largest battle–was fought in this peaceful looking area. The eventual winner lost that time but gained kudos for its strategic defeat.
The population around here very seldom farms. In fact, most work in service industries. At least until the recent economic downturn, services and construction were the fastest growing sectors. Most companies here are relatively small. You won’t find as many large corporate headquarters as you might expect considering the population.
The people who live nearby come from diverse backgrounds. For example, some 20% are Hispanic. Six percent are of Chinese descent. Nearly six percent speak Russian at home. Four percent speak French or a heavily French-influenced language.
I am in the United States. I heard no traffic noise while taking these photos. Where am I? The specific place.
Tweet or direct message your answer to @donnadeau or comment below. Please do not answer if you live near this place. If you enjoy this quiz, I will have more!
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By nick, on July 21, 2010, in Travel
By Nick Runkle
Salento is a beautiful little town nestled in small hills of Colombia’s coffee region. It is one of the most charming towns in Colombia in one of the most beautiful areas.
Most people who end up there are very hesitant to leave after just a couple of days. It is culturally rich and a great place to take a tour of one of the many coffee plantations in the area.
La Valle de Cocora
The highlight of Salento for me was La Valle de Cocora, a magical valley ten minutes from Salento by car.
La Valle de Cocora is home to Colombia’s national tree, the wax palm.
The two and a half hour-long hike through the valley is breathtaking and a good chance to take in the natural beauty of the area. Highly recommended.
The Plantation House
We stayed at a wonderful hostel called The Plantation House, run by a very friendly Englishman. It offers free coffee and tours to a couple of local coffee plantations.
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By nick, on July 8, 2010, in Travel
Isla Del Sol, Lake Titicaca, Bolivia
By Nick Runkle
Isla Del Sol (Island of the Sun) is located in the southern part of lake Titicaca, a short boat ride from Copacabana, Bolivia. It was believed by the Incas to be the birthplace of the sun, and has 80 Incan ruins dating back to the Inca period of 15th century AD.
Many boats depart daily from the main beach in Copacabana and the boat ride there is beautiful.
Even though the island is overrun with tourists, the people living there have held on to their traditions and culture well.
You can walk the entire length of the island easily in one day, and the common thing to do is to take the boat back the same day.
There are number of cheap hostels to stay in and good places to eat.
We brought our tent and camped on the northern end of the island near the shore below the ruins.
A man with a donkey arrived that night and we were sure he was going to tell us that camping was prohibited so close the ruins, but instead he offered to sell us wine, cookies, and other Bolivian snacks from a local store. It was great!
If you are traveling between Bolivia and Peru by land, la Isla Del Sol on Lake Titicaca is a must see, and staying for a night or two is highly recommended.
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By Don Nadeau, on June 20, 2010, in Travel
NYC-area Beaches that Need No Car to Reach
These beach areas—at Sandy Hook, Atlantic City, Robert Moses State Park on Fire Island, and Jones Beach—make great day trips from New York City, without a car. I urge you to sample them!
1- Sandy Hook
Sandy Hook at the entrance to New York Harbor comprises the New Jersey portion of the Gateway National Recreation Area. The views on the ferry to Sandy Hook and from its beaches are outstanding.
Accessing Sandy Hook from New York City
Getting to Sandy Hook is half the fun.
The ferry to Sandy Hook brings you through the heart of New York Harbor and under the Verrazano Bridge, with great views of the Manhattan skyline, the Statue of Liberty, and more.
All summer long and sometimes extending through September, SeaStreak ferries depart from Pier 35 on the East River, south of the United Nations, and from Pier 11 in the Wall Street area. Board at the first stop, which may be either pier, in order to ensure a good seat.
SeaStreak lets you take a bike along at no extra charge. Relatively flat Sandy Hook provides a fine venue for them.
Sandy Hook beaches
The beaches at Sandy Hook were once collectively named “Best Beach” by New York Magazine, and I totally agree.
From the Sandy Hook dock, a bus, which is included in the ferry fare, transfers you to Gunnison, North, or South beaches. See this National Park Service map of Sandy Hook, which opens in pdf format. Gunnison and North beaches face the Atlantic with good surf, not the harbor. (South also does, but I haven’t visited it.)
Many Seastreak passengers choose the southern, clothing-optional portion of Gunnison Beach. (The National Park Service posted signs delineating this area.) Gay men and lesbians tend to hang out south of the main clothing-optional zone.
Choose North Beach if want fewer people. Nevertheless, because both Gunnison and North beaches are far from the auto entrance to the park, you should never encounter crowds.
Some cautions when traveling to Sandy Hook
Be sure to bring along sunscreen, as SeaStreak leaves you on the beaches for hours. There is minimal shade.
You may also wish to bring food that does not spoil easily and drinks, because snack options are very limited and a bit of a trek from the shore. These beaches are wide!
Do not miss the last ferry back, as you are otherwise quite isolated from the city.
2- Atlantic City
I know what some of you are thinking. Atlantic City?
Well to me, Atlantic City provides a vibe like no other place. It is cheap and easy to reach from New York City, and has a nice beach, with the same surf found all along this coast.
True, the beach is narrower than other Jersey shore ones, probably because of encroachment by the boardwalk and casinos, yet for being in an urban setting, this very long beach stays reasonably clean and has less crowded sections away from the main casinos.
Because Atlantic City faces the open Atlantic, you will usually enjoy good surf, but can still walk out quite far in the water, as is typical of beaches in the region.
Perhaps best of all, if the weather turns bad or you get bored, there are always the boardwalk amusements and casinos!
The boardwalk
Although I have little interest in gambling, Atlantic City boardwalk culture fascinates me.
Unlike Las Vegas, which attracts a national and even world audience, Atlantic City brings in most of its visitors from Philadelphia (with direct trains), New York, and other cities in the region. It also seems to draw in many more families to its boardwalk than Vegas ever sees.
These factors open a window on the people who live in the area not available to the usual visitor to Manhattan.
This also makes for some very decent boardwalk food, which in my opinion starts south of the spruced up boardwalk across from the Taj Mahal casino. These repeat visitors year after year will not tolerate, for instance, the inferior pizza you find along many shores.
Reaching Atlantic City from New York City
Two of the most popular ways to access Atlantic City from New York City are Greyhound and New Jersey Transit buses.
Greyhound offers “Lucky Streak” casino packages.
With these, you pay some $35 online for the fare and upon arrival, if 21 or over, receive some $25 or more in cash or slot tokens back and possibly other perks depending on what’s on offer at each casino. (A somewhat lesser-known casino may have a better deal, and promotions may vary by time of year and day of week.) Currently, you’ll find deals listed under “explore destinations” on the right side of the Lucky Streak home page.
Upon arrival, take the document Greyhound gives you to the casino’s “players” counter for your perks. You can change into swimwear in a casino washroom or use beach facilities.
Pick a departure time that takes under two and one-half hours. Also, choose a casino in the most popular portion of the Boardwalk, such as Bally’s, Caesars, or the Taj Mahal, which perhaps not surprisingly attracts many Americans of Indo descent to experience what hath The Donald wrought.
Greyhound departs from the Port Authority Bus Terminal on 8th Avenue between 41st and 42nd streets near all subway lines that stop in the Times Square area.
Your safety in Atlantic City
Essentially, the development of casinos along the boardwalk was an urban renewal project. Areas of Atlantic City remain economically stressed.
Stay with the crowds either near the beach or in the Borgata casino area.
Especially at night, do not venture more than a block or two inland from the boardwalk, unless by taxi to the Las Vegas-like Borgata, the most impressive casino and hotel in town, which offers fine entertainment.
3- Robert Moses State Park on Fire Island
Of all the places mentioned here, Robert Moses State Park on Fire Island remains the most natural, with only well-kept changing rooms, a not so fine snack bar in my opinion, and a few roads and parking lots disturbing nature near the beach. And even these structures are blocked out of view by the dunes that back the beach.
This Atlantic Ocean beach is incredible.
From where the shuttle drops you, the beach extends some three miles east within the park. As if that is not enough, you can continue along the same beach into adjacent Fire Island National Seashore for miles and miles more.
As with Sandy Hook, bring sunscreen—there is no shade—and food and drinks.
In addition, be sure to check the weather prior to traveling, as the very small-grained sand in the park blows easily in strong wind and can make you absolutely miserable. Otherwise, you will love the sand on this beach!
Reaching Robert Moses State Park from New York City
The Long Island Railway provides a special fare from Penn Station, Brooklyn, and Jamaica in Queens near JFK Airport that includes both train and transfer bus. Currently, transfers run twice as frequently on weekends.
No reservations are accepted. Allow plenty of time to buy tickets and to make your way through the maze of Penn Station, the busiest in the U.S.
4- Jones Beach State Park
In his great post about New York City beaches, Andrew Hickey featured Jones Beach on Long Island, not far from New York City, and I will add to that.
Brief history of Jones Beach
The sand for this incredibly popular beach park—by far the most crowded of any mentioned here other than perhaps the central portion of Atlantic City’s beach—was actually hauled in.
For Jones Beach, Robert Moses, who set in motion so many public work projects in New York State (some good, some bad), wanted to create a fine resort for the masses, an uplifting experience for the bulk of New York citizens who could not afford a fine cruise or a fancy resort.
Per New York City Public Television, park staff were dressed in nautical uniforms and trained to treat visitors with utter respect. Entertainment not of the usual tawdry boardwalk-type variety was brought in. We’re talking one classy beach here.
Beaches at Jones Beach
Happily, although the utter respect disappeared long ago, the fantastic beachfront and great evening entertainment remain.
At Jones Beach, you have a choice of facing the Atlantic with ocean-sized waves or much calmer water on an inlet suitable for small children. There are also swimming pools.
Crowds—and expect numbers of people far beyond what you may be used to—peak where the main road reaches the ocean and the transfer bus drops you, but you may find fewer people between the various parking lots further out.
Reaching Jones Beach from New York City
The Long Island Railway offers the same type of special fare, with bus transfer, as it does to Robert Moses State Park and other recreational spots on Long Island.
Note that in 2010 transfer buses do not operate late enough for you to enjoy evening entertainment.
Jones takes less time to access than Robert Moses, but all the beaches mentioned on this page can be easily done in a day trip using public transportation.
Enjoy!
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By nick, on June 11, 2010, in Travel
By Nick Runkle
Parque Tayrona is on the Caribbean Coast of Colombia near the city of Santa Marta and the small fishing town of Taganga.
It is home to some of Colombia’s most beautiful coastline and has the most beautiful beaches that I have ever been to.
Getting to Parque Tayrona
There are buses from Santa Marta that take you to the entrance of the park, where you must pay an entrance fee. From there you can walk along the road to the trailhead which will take you to the coast, or you can pay a small additional fee to get dropped off directly at the trailhead.
The other option is to take a boat from the small town of Taganga and get dropped directly at one of the beaches, avoiding the park entrance fee.
However, beware; the boat ride is notorious for being brutally rough due to the large ocean waves. Not for the faint hearted.
Sleeping and eating
In Arrecifes, the least pleasing area of the park, there are lovely but more expensive cabanas to rent.
I would recommend skipping Arrecifes altogether and getting to Cabo as soon as possible.
In Cabo, you can rent a tent, pitch your own tent, or rent a hammock for the night.
There are public showers and a restaurant that serves food and cold beverages at a premium. It is better to bring as much food and water with you as you can because the restaurants in the park are mighty expensive by Colombian standards.
Leisure
Cabo is absolutely gorgeous and from there you can access two empty beaches and also take the hike up the mountain to El Pueblito, an archeological site definitely worth seeing. The stone path there is unbelievable.
A short walk from Cabo along the coast in the other direction is La Piscina, a naturally formed large swimming area in the ocean. La Piscina is another place to relax and the best place to swim of all the beaches.
I would highly recommend spending at least two nights in Parque Tayrona. It is absolutely spectacular.
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By Don Nadeau, on June 3, 2010, in Travel
A sample itinerary that crosses the USA
How to build variety and interest into a long drive
This is a road trip itinerary I created for three friends on Twitter, who plan to travel this August. It illustrates the tips and suggestions found in “Planning the Perfect Road Trip in North America 101.”
A few weeks back, Andrew Hickey aka @BrooklynNomad of The Brooklyn Nomad, Bruce Poon Tip aka @brucepoontip of Gap Adventures, and I talked about doing a trans-con road trip, but I cannot. Instead, Matt Kepnes aka @nomadicmatt of Nomadic Matt’s Travel Site plans to join them. They will have fun!
Now, I am a realistic person. These are incredibly experienced travelers, even if they’ve never taken the classic American road trip. There seems to be no way that they are going to follow any one person’s itinerary, without changes, even one as brilliant and as perfect as mine!
Nevertheless, I really look forward to following their trip on Twitter and in their blogs.
I hope that this itinerary provides ideas for your road trip. I would love your comments.
Restrictions on this trip
The group tentatively plans to travel in August returning by Labor Day. That means traveling with the crowds, but also means decent weather most days.
They want a roundtrip coast-to-coast trip, instead of flying into Denver, for example, and doing a less-hectic circle trip from there.
Last I heard, the group hadn’t decided on whose vehicle to use. I have Andrew and Matt starting in NYC and picking up Bruce in Toronto, but if they use Bruce’s vehicle, they could do this itinerary in reverse, with Bruce picking up the others in NYC.
If that happens, they may wish to revise the trip, as it currently features more multi-night stops during its last half, when they are not as likely to have as much energy.
Individual considerations – Andrew
Andrew can devote no more than three weeks to this road trip, but I cheat and start them off on a Saturday with a Labor Day return, which makes 24 days, with still no more than three weeks away from the office.
Though completely doable, 24 days still is a short time for a roundtrip transcontinental trip.
Individual considerations – Bruce
Because Bruce’s company features a Utah national park trip (a nice one) that also includes the North Rim of the Grand Canyon and Monument Valley, I’ve excluded those places.
I have also left out spending much time in places like San Francisco, which these constant travelers have probably visited many times. They do have two nights in Las Vegas—one to party and one for the two remaining drivers to recuperate enough to travel!
Individual considerations – Matt
Since Matt needs to travel later this year from Vancouver down the coast to California, I’ve left out some of my favorite places, such as Portland and Santa Barbara, as well as the Avenue of the Giants and Newton B. Drury scenic drives in the coastal redwood area of California.
Matt plans to stay with the trip only as far as California, but I have news for him. He’s in it until Las Vegas, where he should easily find a cheap ticket to California on any day except a Sunday or a holiday Monday.
Day 1 New York City – Toronto
Be sure to take along your passports, as you now need them to return to the States by land. Moreover, Canada may be reluctant to admit you when it knows that you may have problems leaving.
From Niagara Falls, Ontario, take a short detour to Niagara-on-the-Lake via the Niagara Parkway on the Canadian side, if you haven’t seen these beautiful spots.
Along the parkway, notice the statue of Canada’s Major-General Isaac Brock shaking his fist toward the United States. The word on the street says that he was upset about something that happened during 1812.
Days 2-3 Toronto – west of Duluth, Minnesota
You’ll travel along the north shores of Lake Superior and a large inlet of Lake Huron, with sometimes-stunning scenery and frequent hiking and photo opportunities, while passing through a number of provincial and state parks, a wonderful drive.
In marked contrast to any direct trans-con route solely in the U.S., this American/Canadian two-day route keeps you in natural areas an amazing amount of time until after crossing the Mississippi River near its source in northwestern Minnesota.
That is the equivalent of remaining mostly away from agricultural and large urban areas from New York City nearly to Omaha.
Even with all the stops you will want to make, try to drive to beyond Duluth during these two days.
Day 4 West of Duluth – toward Yellowstone National Park
Today takes you toward the Rockies via Theodore Roosevelt National Park, with its natural prairie grassland.
From the Duluth area take a direct Google route, using highways such as U.S. 2, State 200, and U.S. 10, through a scenic area of Minnesota in order to join the I-94 east of Dilworth, near Fargo, North Dakota.
The I-94 provides a fast and not congested “haul arse” route to move you across the Great Plains.
How far you get today depends on your starting point yesterday. Try to reach at least Billings, Montana.
Day 5 In Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks
Explore the highlights of both Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks.
Spend the night in Jackson, Wyoming.
Day 6 Jackson to Lake Tahoe
U.S. 26, the I-15, I-86, I-84, U.S. 93, and the I-80 bring you to Reno.
In Elko, Winnemucca, and other towns along the I-80 legal brothels exist. Think twice before sending loves ones photos of you standing in front of these!
From Reno, take U.S. 395 and then U.S. 50 take you to the lake, a fast route.
If you have time, detour from 395 to Virginia City and then join 50.
At Tahoe, stay in Stateline, Nevada if you want a little gaming action.
Day 7 Lake Tahoe – Napa Valley area
Get an early start today in order to maximize your time in Napa and Sonoma.
Avoid entering Napa Valley from the south, which leads you through Bay Area sprawl. Instead, use U.S. 50 to join a route that takes you through Winters, California, to St. Helena at the northern end of the valley.
St. Helena hosts the graduate school of The Culinary Institute of America, which is open to the public.
You’ll also find Gott’s Roadside (pdf) on the south side of the town, a very interesting upscale fast food joint and one of my favorites. Will you have a Rombauer 2008 Chardonnay with that shrimp taco?
In my opinion, Gott’s owners very foolishly changed its name from Taylor’s Automatic Refresher, one with a huge legacy of positive national press coverage, to theirs.
In late summer, the vineyards will be exceptionally attractive with grapes nearly ready for harvest. At the better wineries, guards in towers make sure that you don’t haul off the raw material to your cellars for processing!
From the east end of Calistoga, north of St. Helena, take the Silverado Trail (opens with music) through an area of Napa Valley nearly untouched by tourism. Also visit the plaza in Sonoma.
You may find significantly less expensive accommodation nearby in Santa Rosa, a nice town. From Sonoma, Highway 12 provides a scenic way to Santa Rosa.
Guy Fieri, the host of Diners, Drive-ins and Dives, owns three restaurants in Santa Rosa, where he lives, and in adjacent Windsor, none of which I’ve tried.
Day 8 Napa Valley area/Santa Rosa – San Francisco)
Travel via Point Reyes National Seashore and then scenic Highway 1 over the Golden Gate Bridge, the perfect way to enter San Francisco.
If you hike a bit at the national seashore, make sure that you don’t get stuck in a cove due to a rising tide. That’s a real danger there.
On a warm day, you may wish to enjoy the state beach park at Stinson Beach along Highway1. The water is cold but the beach is pleasant.
(Of course, most readers will want to schedule more than one night in San Francisco, but our travelers have probably been there a numerous times.)
Day 9 San Francisco – Monterey Bay
Instead of Highway 1, take the I-280 freeway south from San Francisco to the Highway 85 interchange near San Jose. (Do not take either 1 or U.S. 101.)
Taking this route maximizes your time on the best part of this coast. You should find the I-280 remarkably pleasant for an urban freeway as it passes through extensive greenbelts sometimes with views of San Francisco Bay below.
At the 85 interchange, you will be less than a mile from the Apple corporate campus. Check an online map for 1 Infinite Loop, Cupertino, CA if you are Apple fanatics as I am. Sadly, the pirate flag no longer flies there. Hoist it again!
From the I-280, travel south on the 85 freeway and then State 17 (a rather dangerous road) to Santa Cruz.
Santa Cruz – Monterey – Carmel – Big Sur
Of all the California beach towns—and I’ve been to them all–Santa Cruz may remind you most of a Jersey shore town—if the Jersey shore was populated by new age surfers. Interestingly, some of these unpretentious-looking surfers own Silicon Valley companies.
In late summer, you’ll often find it warm and sunny in Santa Cruz, when fog shrouds San Francisco. If so, you may want to head to the beach that fronts the boardwalk. (The Santa Cruz area is also known for its clothing-optional beaches.)
From Santa Cruz, take Highway 1 to Carmel and visit its lovely beach. No wonder this town so far from Hollywood attracts celebrities like Clint Eastwood, who was mayor.
Then head south on Highway 1 past Big Sur to Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park. This drive goes slowly as there are so many places you will want to stop for photos.
Park in the main lot of the park on the east side of Highway 1, and then take the adjacent trail under the highway to the waterfall that cascades down onto a pristine beach all year. Awesome.
Return to Carmel/Monterey area via Highway 1. This beautiful coastline will be one of the great highlights of your trip.
When you reach the Highway 68 exit near Monterey, exit on 68 toward the coast.
Highway 68 becomes Sunset Drive.
Continue on Sunset until you reach the coast and then follow Sunset as it veers right to take you along an exceptionally scenic shoreline. Continue on Sunset, which turns into Ocean View Drive in Pacific Grove. Changing names doesn’t stop the fine views.
Eventually, you’ll reach the Cannery Row area of Monterey.
If you run out of time for all these activities, you can do several of them tomorrow morning and still be in Yosemite by dark.
Day 10 Monterey Bay – Yosemite Valley
An early start gets you to Yosemite National Park in time to enjoy the afternoon there.
There are lots of accommodation options in Yosemite Valley, which are seldom available without advance reservations.
Curry Village, one of these, brings you the strangest camping you may have experienced, with very comfortable hotel quality beds and bedroom furniture in canvas tents. These tents provide fresh air but no noise insulation whatsoever and if you store food in them you may be in for a surprise, as their thin walls provide no protection from the bears that roam everywhere in Yosemite Valley. In addition, you’ll need a flashlight to find your way to the washrooms at night. Nevertheless, I liked this more comfortable version of camping.
Day 11 In Yosemite National Park
I highly recommend the breakfast buffet at The Ahwahnee, a classic national park hotel, the best in Yosemite, for its atmospheric dining room and awesome views alone. The food’s not bad either.
Then explore this wonderful valley, nearby Glacier Point, and the giant sequoias at Mariposa Grove.
Day 12 Yosemite Valley – Las Vegas
I love the Mojave Desert that surrounds Las Vegas in Nevada and in California and northwestern Arizona (above).
This seven-hour drive, excluding stops, takes you through the high country of Yosemite and via the park’s rugged but paved east entrance road.
Whereas they rise gently from the west, the Sierra Nevada Mountains abruptly ascend on the east, and you’ll experience the grandeur of them as you drive down and then look back.
Just before Highway 120 reaches U.S. 395, you’ll see an Exxon station on the right with a remarkable restaurant called Whoa Nellie Deli that I found out about in Lonely Planet.
If Whoa Nellie is still as good in this isolated location as it was three years ago, you will be pleasantly surprised. There’s pizza, burgers, and all that, but enjoy one of its so-called international fusion dishes.
Time your drive to arrive in Vegas at or after sunset, the best times.
Day 13 In Las Vegas
“Vegas baby, Vegas!”
Day 14 Las Vegas – South Rim Grand Canyon
I’ve Matt set to return to California, but airlines like American serving Albuquerque (Santa Fe), San Antonio, Austin, and even New Orleans all tend to offer low-cost one-way fares due to the competitive presence of Southwest. Really Matt, stick with your buddies for a while longer on this road trip.
If you are boycotting Arizona, you can purchase all of your gas, food, and accommodation in the northern part of the state on self-governing tribal lands. These lands border Grand Canyon National Park, the main destination there. I am just letting you know, not proselytizing for a boycott.
Between Kingman and Seligman, travel on State Route 66 that once was part of the Mother Road. You’ll see relics of its past. State 66 also follows the incredibly busy old Santa Fe now BNSF railway route.
The South Rim, not the “western” one nearer Vegas, gives the best views. In part because this area gets summer haze, try to view the canyon at sunset or sunrise, when colors are more powerful.
On my last trip here, I liked the Mather campground within walking distance of the rim and village, but you are exceptionally unlikely to stay there without advance booking.
Day 15 South Rim Grand Canyon – Santa Fe
Take the rim drive to the east entrance, stopping at various viewpoints.
When you reach U.S. 89, you can either turn right to access a route via Painted Desert National Park along the I-40 or left to access Highway 160 and others that take you through the heart of Navajo and, depending on the route, Hopi tribal lands.
Day 16 In Santa Fe
Because my guess is that this group loves fine dining nearly as much as at least one of them loves his Guinness, I’ve scheduled this three night, most of the two-night, and sometimes the one-night stops at places like Santa Fe that facilitate at least one of their habits. Hey, call me their enabler, if you must.
In any case, Santa Fe has great restaurants and cafes.
Today, take the “High Road to Taos,” one of the great scenic drives in the U.S. that seems to bring you back centuries in time, and then return via the faster direct route.
Day 17 In Santa Fe
By this time, you may need a day to relax and to catch up on emails and other work. You may also need a bit of padding in your itinerary in case you have been delayed, in order to get back on schedule.
If these are true, relax, work, take pleasure in several good meals, and enjoy exploring the plaza area.
If these are not so true, enjoy Santa Fe in the morning and at least part of the afternoon, and then drive some four hours to Roswell, New Mexico, which need not be done during daylight. That will open up time for some underground action at Carlsbad Caverns National Park tomorrow.
Day 18 Santa Fe – San Antonio
If you didn’t drive on to Roswell yesterday, get an early start because today brings a long drive.
From the Santa Fe area, U.S. 285 takes you to the eastbound I-10 to San Antonio.
Highway 285 brings you through an extraordinarily friendly part of the U.S. On less busy sections people wave as you pass.
And, it is not just humans who may be waving, even though you missed the Roswell UPO Festival during July.
Today, you will love the liberal speed limits, in some cases nearly twice what is permitted on some sections of the I-278 in Brooklyn.
Travel as far as San Antonio today in order to enjoy an evening in its Riverwalk zone, an almost magical experience after dark. You may fall in love with Texas.
Day 19 San Antonio – Austin
A short drive today.
By the time you reach Austin and San Antonio, you are back in the humidity that blankets the eastern U.S. and part of Canada during summer. As an antidote, nothing beats a swim in cool water in a beautiful setting on a hot Texas summer day.
Between San Antonio and Austin, you could stop at Schlitterbahn in New Braunfels, one of the most famous water parks in the U.S., but it’s more of a family place.
And, outside of Austin, you could stop at my favorite local watering hole, Hamilton Pool, which has an absolutely awesome natural setting, but it limits the number of people who can visit each day, in order to preserve its environment. If you don’t arrive first thing in the morning, you can sit in the hot sun several hours waiting to get in.
Instead, sleep in and then head for Barton Springs Pool (fed by various natural springs) near downtown Austin, where you will find a fantastic spot to cool off on a hot Texas afternoon. I love this place and I am not the only one!
Spend an evening along lively 6th Street, the place to be on a warm Austin evening.
Austin has become one of my favorite towns.
Day 20 Austin – New Orleans
When you reach Lafayette in Louisiana, take U.S. 90 via New Iberia and bayou country. However, if you got a late start in Austin, the I-10 into NOLA will do just fine.
Day 21 In New Orleans
Since Katrina, Mardi Gras bling has again accumulated on trees along the St. Charles Avenue parade route (above).
To let you know where I am coming from, my maternal grandparents scheduled at least a week in New Orleans every two years mostly to dine. They knew how to live!
They absolutely loved Galatoire’s in French Quarter, as do I. Galatoire’s remains one of the finest restaurants in the United States, but not a horrifically expensive one at lunch. Notice I didn’t say cheap, however.
During summer, you need not wear a jacket at Galatoire’s for lunch or at Upperline in the Garden District for dinner. (You can take the St. Charles streetcar there.) However, you will want to look well dressed at either restaurant. That means no jeans at Galatoire’s and no shorts or t-shirts at either place.
If you have jackets, consider Commanders Palace, also in the Garden District, or Arnaud’s in the French Quarter, the one my grandparents loved most of all, for dinner.
Also, consider taking a combo Katrina and city tour.
Check if Diane Silva or Pat Dupuy at Gray Line is leading one of these. Both women lost loved ones and give memorable tours. Andrew may be especially interested as Diane talks about the similarities between New Orleans and New York City accents. Pat is a total expert on NOLA cemeteries.
By the way, please do not let the Gulf oil slick worry you. It is extremely unlikely to reach the tourist areas of New Orleans. However, because people think it will, New Orleans may suffer.
Day 22 New Orleans – in/near Pigeon Forge, TN
Off to Dolly Parton country!
Day 23 Pigeon Forge – Asheville
From Pigeon Forge or a nearby town, drive U.S. 441 through the heart of Smokey Mountains National Park. This park really uplifts you.
Near the east exit of the park, take the Blue Ridge Parkway to U.S. 19 and then U.S. 19 and the I-40 to Asheville, NC.
In Asheville this afternoon, visit the Biltmore Estate, one of the grand homes and gardens of the 19th century wealthy in the U.S., in this case an heir to the Vanderbilt New York Central Railway fortune.
I know Andrew has an interest in Frederick Olmsted, best known for designing Central Park in New York. Biltmore was his largest commission, an 125,000-acre spread. The mild climate here fosters a remarkable biodiversity, which you may have seen in lush scenes from the 1992 film The Last of the Mohicans.
Tickets are expensive—this home with its extensive gardens is a bear to keep up—but you can sometimes find specials online. In my opinion, the Biltmore is worth its price.
Day 24 Asheville – New York City (Brooklyn)
This route can be driven in one day in less than 12 hours, excluding stops, but you will miss sights. Add a day, if you can!
Travel north on U.S. 23 and then the I-81, the I-78 and once in the NYC area the I-287, I-95, and I-278 to Brooklyn.
Traveling this mostly I-81 route keeps you away from the sometimes-gross traffic on the I-95 and in far more scenic countryside.
This route also feeds my blackberry fetish. Blackberry pies, blackberry spreads, blackberry muffins, blackberry ice cream everywhere. I am in heaven through the Blue Ridge area of North Carolina and Virginia!
At Lexington, Virginia, exit the I-81 to see the classic Virginia Military Institute and adjacent Washington and Lee university campuses.
If you have time, take in a bit of the Blue Ridge Parkway from near Lexington.
And, if you end up adding time to this trip, I also recommend doing some of beautiful Skyline Drive in Shenandoah National Park, the first artificial such park in America—seriously.
Most of the park had been cleared of trees for farms, which declined due to overgrazing and resultant severe erosion and other factors, until many were abandoned. Most of the present trees and predecessors were planted as public works projects during the Great Depression.
Day 25 New York City – Toronto
Bruce makes his way to Toronto today or later.
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By Don Nadeau, on June 1, 2010, in Hotel Tips, Travel
Tips for enjoying a long drive to the fullest
Maximize your experience
Focus on areas best seen by car, places that you are unlikely to experience during your usual travels, especially if you normally travel by air. In other words, get out into nature.
Pick your highways in part by their scenic potential. Don’t let a Google Maps tell you each route to go. It doesn’t care about what you see.
For example, the I-80 through Wyoming shows you mostly a few mountains in the distance–much of this road is remarkably flat–but the I-70 through Colorado takes you into the heart of the Rockies.
National Geographic Guide to Scenic Highways and Byways, 3d Ed
, a favorite of mine, and other guides help with route selection.
Also, include as many national parks and great provincial and state parks away from cities as possible, such as Humboldt Redwoods State Park in California.
Seriously consider buying a U.S. national park pass for $80 that covers the pass holder plus three adults in the same personal vehicle. Children under 16 are free. If 62 or over, you get the best rate of all, $10 for a lifetime.
Mix it up
Mix road types. An all-Interstate highway trip in the States can be deadly to the soul—and to the stomach.
Mix scenery. For example, you could drive from Minneapolis to Padre Island with only subtle changes in landscape, but why not travel one-way via a lake or wild river in the Ozarks?
To maximize your time at the best spots, have what some Canadians call “haul arse days” on less interesting roads, days that you drive with just minimal breaks for safety and refreshment.
Balance these with days with little driving, stopping in an afternoon, for example, at a water park or taking a hike.
So many people divide the miles they must travel into the same amount each day. Don’t do that!
Pad your trip
Pad your itinerary. Plan days that you can easily skip if you lose time due to a vehicle breakdown or feel ill.
In any case, schedule time for relaxation.
It’s so easy to over plan and include more than you will end up wanting to do. Most of us don’t go on road trips in order to come back exhausted.
Driver fatigue and well being
Be realistic about mileage.
Three drivers can easily do 12 – 14 hours, excluding stops, but everyone soon tires of that routine if done every day.
Keep in mind driver safety. No one should drive more than 2.5 hours without a break of some type. And, no one should drive so much each day that he or she becomes drowsy. That becomes a significant safety risk, with reduced reaction time and perception.
Schedule time each day for exercise, hiking, swimming, running, or whatever. Not only will drivers stay fresher, but also the digestion of everyone should stay healthier on long trips.
Accommodation
Stay two or more nights in some places, instead of moving on all the time. You’ll feel so much more relaxed at the end of a road trip.
Especially at peak travel times such as school holidays, plan your itinerary well enough so that you can reserve places to sleep in advance at the busiest spots.
You are simply not likely to find a last-minute camping space or hotel room in Yosemite and other such places at peak times. The U.S. has more than 300,000,000 people. It adds nearly 3,000,000 per year.
However, favor motels or camping spots that have liberal cancellation policies. You want to be able to cancel up to 6:00 p.m. local time on the day of intended arrival without penalty, not 72 hours or whatever in advance. I realize that this may not be possible at popular places like the Grand Canyon.
If traveling in the western U.S., consider camping some nights. This gives you a fresh experience of natural environments that you may not get any other way.
Along the California coast, for instance, you’ll encounter nearly no rain in summer and seldom a mosquito. In fact, I’ve never experienced one of those pests while hiking or camping near the coast in either the U.S. or southwestern British Columbia.
Dining on the road
Avoid eating heavily on long travel days, and have your larger meal at lunch. Save the “big deal” meals for days when you are not sitting in your ride most of the time, and also have these at lunch.
This routine helps you fall asleep more easily and soundly.
I have a rule on any long trip—national chain food only if I have to. Sometimes that means I look for quality regional chains like Culver’s. Mostly, I seek out local independent favorites except where there are no convenient alternatives.
Dining well, with variety, makes travelling so much more interesting.
Roadfood.com
Roadfood.com helps you find the places locals love to dine. Check out its restaurant tab.
Reviewers include Michael Stern, the co-founder of Roadfood with his wife Jane, who until recently wrote a monthly column for now defunct Gourmet Magazine.
You’ll find a lively forum on Roadfood. Of special interest are its “Where should I eat” and “Trip Reports” sections.
Keep your children involved
Consider the feelings of your children, who may not be as interested in the drive as you.
Bring in your kids to help plan the trip from the very start. Seek their input for changes while traveling. Help them prioritize the various options in a way fair to everyone.
All this creates ownership and interest and helps them learn to make wise choices.
Have activities and materials to keep them busy. My parents staged contests, e.g., who would be first to notice a car with an Alaskan or Newfoundland license plate or a certain type of vehicle.
Hook up a satellite radio
On long trips, I cannot recommend enough a satellite radio network like Sirius (available both in Canada and the U.S.).
You will be amazed at the lack of reception and abysmal selection of stations still found in extensive areas of North America.
With Sirius, you’ll have perfect reception except under overpasses and in tunnels. (If not, try hooking Sirius into the auxiliary slot on your car radio/CD system, in order to avoid interference.)
One-way vehicles
Especially travelers from outside of North America should consider a one-way road trip. Overseas travelers can easily set up air tickets to fly into one coast and out of the other.
Most of us have no other reason to cross the Great Plains twice on the same trip other than we want to keep the vehicle we are using.
If that is not the case, you have choices.
You may find “auto drive away” companies that provide cars for free, sometimes with a gas allowance if the ride is a guzzler, but these very severely restrict the time and mileage allowed. You are not given time for much sightseeing, unless you can somehow negotiate this.
Instead, some travelers buy a pre-owned vehicle at, let’s say, a Southern California hostel, after having it checked by a mechanic, and then sell it once they reach Orlando or another place across the country. Obviously, this works best for people not on set schedules.
In addition, some rental car companies charge no drop off fee if they need cars moved. This May, for example, Alamo and National offered $10 per day one-way rentals from Florida to parts of the U.S. more popular in summer.
That was a deal! And one not that uncommon as rental car companies adjust inventories.
Next post: A sample road trip itinerary that uses these tips
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By Don Nadeau, on May 16, 2010, in Travel
I would like to tell you about an American I met this March in Europe, who had had her passport stolen six days before.
Her experience serves as a helpful reminder of safe and unsafe travel procedures, especially with something as critical as your passport.
Losing your passport agony
Life had not gone well for this high school Spanish teacher since the handbag with her passport, placed under a table at a crowded café in Malaga Spain, had disappeared. She was still experiencing the utter misery of having her passport stolen.
She had hardly slept during the previous six days.
In fact during the last 48 hours trying to stand by for flights from Charles de Gaulle Airport, all of which were full, this teacher had not been able to sleep at all, in part because of security sweeps and because of the noise made at night by cleaning personnel. She had no money left for a hotel.
My new friend looked terrible and felt terrible. The stress of her situation had made her ill.
Into the abyss
Besides the passport, all of her credit cards, all of her cash, her driver’s license, and her cell phone were in that handbag.
Luckily in this case, she was chaperoning a group of mostly 15-year-old high school students, whose expenses and hers were prepaid for the next several days until the students had to return home without her. She could at least borrow their cellphones to cancel her credit cards and phone and to talk with the embassy, airline, and police.
However, being so used to using the speed dial features of her phone, she could not remember the telephone numbers of her friends and relatives other than one relative in the UK. Her sole address book was that cell phone.
Embarrassed by the situation, she did not ask her relative for enough money to carry her through if she did not get on a return flight right away. With flights full, airport hotels running around $200 and up per night, and still no credit cards, she ended up attempting to sleep at the airport in Paris.
Wiring money was also a problem. Without identification, she could not collect any money. Happily, the funds wired in the name of one of her students arrived before that student returned home. That way she could reach the embassy and airport in Madrid.
Being fluent in Spanish, at least she did not have to wait for the police to schedule a translator before she filed the police report needed for the passport replacement. That saved one day.
Also, Air France and Delta were very kind to her, she said, especially by not charging her any penalties or fare supplements, which could have been very high, for missing her group flight home. Most of us may not be so lucky.
Interestingly, when she arrived at the U.S. Embassy, 20 other Americans were waiting for lost and stolen passport replacements.
Employment impact
Perhaps most stressful of all was the potential impact on her reputation.
Although she has enjoyed leading these student trips for years with no problems, will parents trust her with their children in the future?
In this case, the parents of some students apparently became very upset when they found out that their children would be returning home from Europe on connecting flights without adult supervision. This in turn agitated her high school principal, who also faced having her out of the classroom for at least an additional week depending on her health.
(Even if the she or the school had been willing and able to pay some $3,000 in last-minute airfare to have an alternative adult on the group flights home, spring break period flights were already overbooked.)
The right stuff
Of course, this person made the terribly serious mistake putting “all her eggs in one basket,” that handbag, which she then placed out of her sight on the floor. She could have at least kept several credit cards in a separate place.
One has to question putting anything in a handbag while traveling in some locales. In some places, I have used clear plastic bags to carry inexpensive items such as food, which sends a message that I am not worth bothering.
On the other hand, my new teacher friend did several things that significantly helped her situation and could help yours.
First, she placed copies of the front and back of her credit cards in another location, which facilitated cancelling them quickly.
Second, the U.S. Embassy mentioned that the copy she brought of the information page in her passport speeded up the replacement process, which in her case got her a new passport on the same day. For some reason, the embassy also said that her copy in color facilitated the process even more.
You can either store paper copies of your passport and cards in a separate bag, as she fortunately did, or perhaps preferably in an easily accessible but secure Internet database, such as the one at Mac.com.
Interestingly, she took along a money belt, which set unused, as “too much of a nuisance.” I am willing to bet that it will be well used next time for items not immediately needed!
Her luck turns
At check in, I asked if the flight was overbooked. “Very overbooked,” I was told. “We’ll give you $1,000, a hotel, and meals if you fly the next day.” With visions of another night in Paris and that money floating before my eyes, I volunteered instantly!
In the overcrowded gate area, I felt so sorry for my new friend. She seemed to have no chance of traveling standby on this, the last flight of the day. That probably meant another sleepless night for a person who was ill.
However, after we boarded, there she came to sit two seats over!
That’s a $1,000 overbooking compensation I am glad I did not collect. However, I did get even by speaking my terrible Spanish to her on the way home.
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These tips give you basic information that every rental car customer should know. You will not find the companies that give the best deals here, but you will learn how to save money and to avoid car rental disasters.
Skim if you are an experienced renter, but read carefully if you’re not.
1. If you are driving away from your rental city, go with a nation-wide company like Avis, Hertz or National, one with lots of rental locations and a reputation for providing newer cars, even if you have to pay a little more. On this type of trip, you need a good car and quick help if something does break down.
2. Taxes and fees vary widely by location. If you have a choice of pick up locations, compare total prices.
For example, if you rent a car at DFW Airport near Dallas, you’ll pay an amazing amount in fees and taxes. You won’t pay such high fees at a location in Dallas itself.
On the other hand, not all airports have high fees. And, rental charges, excluding taxes and fees, may be much more competitive at some airports than in town.
3. Your credit card or home auto insurance policy may cover insurance for your rental car, but be absolutely sure that you are covered before you decline damage insurance offered by the rental company.
This is especially true if you pay a third party like Hotwire in advance. Will your credit card company cover when you don’t pay directly?
Otherwise, you could become responsible for the full value of the car—value as determined by the rental company—as well as the rental income lost while the car is being repaired or replaced.
4. If you are depending on your home auto insurance, bring a copy of the policy. Especially smaller and less well-known companies may refuse to let you decline their often-expensive insurance without it.
5. For your protection, all drivers must sign the rental agreement. If drivers do not sign, that could void your insurance if one gets in an accident.
However, additional drivers may mean extra charges.
6. If under 25, be sure to check age requirements with the rental location before traveling. Some companies will not rent to you at all; others may charge more.
On the other hand, if you are traveling on business, your company may have a negotiated agreement that covers you without penalty. Check with your travel department.
7. All renters dealing with a new company should read “rental policies” on its website. This discusses credit card requirements, debit card restrictions, gas policies, where you cannot take the car (e.g., on dirt roads), etc.
For example, driving on dirt roads may void your insurance and debit cards may not be accepted leaving you stranded at the rental counter even if you have prepaid the basic rental cost.
8. Speaking of gas policies, you are better off saying that you will return the car with a full tank. Full, by the way, means full. Otherwise, you may find an ugly charge on your credit card bill even if the tank was nearly full.
9. Never show up without a copy of your reservation that shows dates, rental costs, etc.
Otherwise, it is your word against theirs and—hey—they hold the keys!
10. As with hotels, car rental companies may get a temporary authorization on your credit card for much more than the projected cost. This may cause some renters with limited credit available to have problems using their cards elsewhere until several days after returning their cars.
11. Your driving record may be checked before you are given a car. If this concerns you, call about your situation before showing up at the rental counter.
12. Ask your rental car company for a map of its location. Particularly some airport locations can be frustrating to find when you are in a rush to return your car before your flight.
13. Number 13, but not unlucky at all.
Meticulously examine your car before driving away from the rental company. Have any damages, regardless of how small, listed in writing. This is important! You don’t want to be changed for damage done by someone else.
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Have you wanted to take a long distance road trip in the U.S., but lack a car—at least one in good condition—or a pile of money?
National Rental Car has a win-win deal for you.
National needs drivers to move cars out of Florida in time for summer. Not everywhere in Florida, but at many of its locations. There are lots of cars to move and thus National has a sweet price for you.
What you’ll get
If you pick up a car by May 31st, you can have it for $10 a day, as long as National still has cars available for this deal at the time you reserve. There are no mileage or “drop off” fees.
That means a three-week rental costs just $210 plus tax and airport fees, if any. All you have to do is to drive it to a National location in the Continental U.S. that needs cars.
The $10 applies to compact and midsize cars. Twelve dollars gets you a standard or full-sized one. These prices are from a very respected company.
Unlike “drive away” firms you may have heard of, you won’t be limited in miles—you won’t be expected to drive the most direct route in very little time. You’ll have the time and mileage available to enjoy your trip. And, unlike some rental deals, you won’t have to pay a nonrefundable price up front to book. In fact, you won’t be asked for your credit card until you reach the rental counter.
What about getting to Florida?
Happily, that’s fairly easy.
Florida ranks as one of the best places to reach on budget one-way air tickets. Southwest, JetBlue, Virgin America, and Allegiant Air all sell cheap one-way fares. Other airlines often match these.
Compare car prices
National has a great deal, but compare it to other companies. Check out a site like Travelocity. Click through to the one-way option:
I like Travelocity because its price totals—what you’ll pay with taxes and airport fees—tend to be very accurate.
Other rental car firms may match National’s prices. In fact, Alamo already has:
See the U.S. for Less! Florida One-Way Rentals from $10/Day from Alamo!
If you can’t find this deal, try other rental locations in Florida or near your destination.
This is your chance. Go for it!
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